The short answer to how a dermaroller is used is this: the skin is cleaned, a sterile roller with a needle length suited to the area is rolled in directional movements with light pressure, and then the skin is gently moisturised and left to rest. The needle length, the frequency of application and the accompanying product differ on the face, the scalp and the beard. For this reason, especially on the scalp and for deep scars, it is more correct to plan the procedure with a doctor.
How a dermaroller is used, a short summary
A dermaroller is a cylinder with many fine needles on its surface; by opening controlled micro-channels in the upper layers of the skin, it triggers the skin’s own renewal process. To read about how it works in detail, you can look at our article how does a dermaroller work.
- The application area is cleaned and, if necessary, numbing cream is used on the doctor’s recommendation.
- The roller is rolled over the same area in vertical, horizontal and diagonal directions, with light pressure.
- After the application the skin is calmed, moisturised and protected from the sun.
- The procedure is not repeated before the skin has fully recovered.
Application steps on the face
Dermaroller application on the face proceeds in three stages: preparation, application and care.
Preparation
Makeup, oil and dirt are cleaned off completely; the skin is dried. The area is wiped with an antiseptic product. Make sure that the roller is sterile and clean. If there is an active pimple, cold sore or wound, the application is not done.
Application
The face is divided into small areas: the forehead, cheeks, chin and around the nose. In each area the roller is rolled in one direction with light pressure; it is lifted and the direction changed. Pressing continuously on the same spot or rubbing the skin irritates the skin unnecessarily. Around the eye and in thin-skin areas, shorter needles and a more careful technique are needed.
After the application
Mild redness and tightness may be seen. A moisturiser that calms the skin is used, the sun is avoided, and for a while products that can irritate, such as peels and retinoids, are kept away. For how normal the redness is, you can look at our article redness after dermaroller.
Application on the scalp
On the scalp, the dermaroller is applied with short and controlled needling to the area where the hair roots are; the aim is to stimulate the tissue around the hair roots and to support the absorption of the accompanying products.
The steps of application to the hair are roughly as follows:
- The scalp is cleaned; no oil, product residue or dirt should remain.
- The thinning or shedding area is identified; it is not applied to areas with an open wound, infection or scabbing.
- The roller is rolled over the scalp with light pressure in vertical, horizontal and diagonal directions. Because the hair roots are very close together, the pressure is kept soft.
- If there is a serum or PRP application recommended by the doctor, it is done during or right after the procedure.
- After the application, dyes, harsh shampoos and products that would irritate the scalp are avoided for a while.
When asked whether a dermaroller grows hair, the honest answer is this: the cause of the hair loss is decisive. Hereditary hair loss, vitamin deficiency, hormonal causes and scalp diseases require different approaches. A dermaroller on its own does not give results in every case, and results vary from person to person. The effect is evaluated not in the first days but over time with regular, doctor-supervised applications. To see the options applied at the clinic for hair loss, you can look at our PRP hair treatment page.
Does it work in the beard area
A dermaroller can be used for sparse areas in the beard, but its effect varies from person to person and it cannot be said to be a solution for every beard sparseness. Because facial skin is different from the scalp, the needle length and the pressure must be adjusted more carefully.
In areas with genetic causes, where no hair grows at all or where hair does not come in because of a scar, microneedling alone may not be enough. In such cases a doctor’s evaluation and, if necessary, options such as beard transplant come into question. The roller is not applied to an area with active pimples, ingrown hairs or folliculitis.
Which serums it is used with
A dermaroller can be used with products the doctor finds suitable, such as serums containing hyaluronic acid, peptides and vitamins, and PRP. Because any product applied to the skin while the micro-channels are open is absorbed more than normal, the product needs to be sterile and suitable for this purpose.
- On the face, serums containing hyaluronic acid or vitamins can be preferred for moisture and evening out tone.
- On the scalp, a combination with hair serums chosen by the doctor or with PRP can be planned.
- Cosmetic products containing perfume, alcohol and acids carry a risk of irritation and reaction when they come into contact with open channels.
We explained in which situations combinations are preferred in our article dermaroller and serum combinations.
Application frequency and healing interval
The dermaroller application interval is determined according to the needle length, the area and the recovery rate of the skin; as a rule, a new session is not done until the skin has completely healed. Short needles are planned at more frequent intervals and long needles at less frequent intervals. It is normal for the intervals to differ for the face and the scalp, so a plan specific to the person is made instead of giving a single number. For detailed information, you can look at our article dermaroller application frequency.
Hygiene and cleaning
A dermaroller should be personal and kept clean with every use, because the needles pierce the skin and residue left on the device increases the risk of infection.
- The roller is not shared with anyone.
- After use it is cleaned and disinfected as the manufacturer recommends, and dried.
- It is stored in its closed box, away from dust.
- If the needles have become blunt, bent or worn, the device is replaced.
- Hands are washed before the application and the application area is cleaned.
The difference between home and clinic application
Rollers used at home generally have shorter needles and the person manages the application themselves; in the clinic, the skin type is evaluated and the needle length and technique are chosen under the doctor’s supervision. In an application done at home, hygiene and correct technique are left to the user, and the margin for error is higher in sensitive areas such as deep scars or the scalp. For the details of the comparison, take a look at our article should a dermaroller be done at home or in the clinic. For the procedure at our clinic, you can examine the Izmir dermaroller page.
Microneedle roller, dermaroller and dermapen
Microneedle roller and dermaroller are names given to the same device; dermapen, on the other hand, is a separate microneedling device that is pen-shaped and in which the needles advance vertically. For those looking for another method instead of a roller, dermapen can be an option; the condition of the skin and the goal determine which one is suitable.
Situations to avoid the application
A dermaroller is not applied on skin with an active infection, an open wound or marked irritation.
- Areas with an active pimple, cold sore, wart or an eczema flare
- Sunburn or very sensitive, irritated skin
- A history of keloids or excessive scarring
- Use of blood-thinning medication, some chronic skin diseases, pregnancy and breastfeeding
- Recent use of an intensive peel, laser or retinoid
If any item in this list applies to you, you need to consult the doctor before the application.
Frequently asked questions
How is a dermaroller used?
The skin is cleaned, a sterile roller with a needle length suited to the area is rolled in different directions with light pressure, and then the skin is moisturised and protected from the sun. In applications done at home, hygiene and correct technique are very important.
How is a dermaroller applied to the hair?
It is applied to a clean scalp, to the thinning area, in a controlled way and with light pressure; if necessary it is used together with the serum or PRP recommended by the doctor. It is not applied to areas with an open wound, infection or irritation.
Does a dermaroller work for the beard?
It may be supportive in some people in sparse areas, but the result varies from person to person. In areas where no hair grows at all, a roller alone may not be enough; a doctor’s evaluation is needed.
Which serums is a dermaroller used with?
It can be used with sterile products the doctor finds suitable, such as serums containing hyaluronic acid, peptides and vitamins, or PRP. Products containing alcohol, perfume or acids are avoided.
How many days apart is a dermaroller used?
The interval varies with the needle length, the treated area and the recovery rate of the skin; a new application is not done until the skin has completely healed. The doctor determines the interval specific to the person.
A next step
If you are not sure whether a dermaroller is suitable for your face, your scalp or your beard, you can make a plan with a doctor’s evaluation at Özel Demiderm Polikliniği in Izmir. For your questions you can make an appointment.
