How Does a Dermaroller Work?
While there are many different methods among skin rejuvenation treatments, from chemical peels to lasers, “Microneedling” technology is one of the leading systems that triggers the biological repair mechanism in the most natural and mechanical way. The main player in the process that forms the basis of this technology and is defined as “Percutaneous Collagen Induction Therapy” (PCI) in medical aesthetic literature is the Dermaroller. This device, which seems to have a simple design, is actually a sophisticated key that initiates a complex and chain-reaction healing reaction under the skin. Dermaroller enables the skin to regenerate entirely by using its own potential, without injecting a synthetic substance into the skin from the outside or burning the tissue with heat energy (like lasers).
For individuals living in a sunny climate, especially in a place like Izmir, who have problems such as loss of elasticity due to sun damage, enlarged pores, or blemishes on their skin, understanding the working principle of the Dermaroller is critical for choosing the right treatment. The answer to the question frequently asked by patients in Izmir, “How can my skin regenerate itself?”, lies in the “controlled trauma” effect created by the Dermaroller.
Basic Mechanism: Controlled Micro-Trauma
The working principle of the Dermaroller is based on “Wound Healing,” the most primitive and powerful survival mechanism of our body.
The device is a cylindrical drum with hundreds of micro-needles. When rolled over the skin, these needles pierce the epidermis (upper skin) and create thousands of microscopic channels that reach the dermis (middle skin). These channels are so thin that the skin integrity does not appear to be compromised, and bleeding is usually minimal (pinpoint bleeding). However, our skin perceives these micro-incisions as “injury.” Signals sent to the brain convey the message, “Tissue integrity has been compromised, urgent repair must be initiated.” This is where the real magic of Dermaroller lies: there is actually no large wound, but the body reacts as if there were and dispatches its entire repair army to that area.
3 Stages of Biological Repair
The process that takes place under the skin after Dermaroller application is examined in three main phases:
1. Inflammation Phase (First 1-3 Days)
With the insertion of the needles, platelets are activated and release growth factors (PDGF, FGF, TGF-beta). These factors attract repair cells to the area. Redness and slight edema in the skin indicate the start of this phase and increased blood circulation.
2. Proliferation Phase (Day 3 – Week 4)
Fibroblast cells (the architects of the skin) that arrive in the area rapidly multiply, beginning to produce new Type 3 Collagen (wound healing collagen), elastin, and new capillaries. During this period, skin quality improves, and pores begin to tighten. Remodeling Phase (Months and Years)
The Type 3 collagen produced transforms into the stronger and more durable Type 1 Collagen over time. The skin thickens, tightens, and the depth of scars decreases. This process continues even months after the procedure. Needle Lengths and Depth of Effect
How the Dermaroller works varies depending on the length (mm) of the needle used. Each depth targets a different problem.
- 0.25 mm – 0.5 mm (Surface Effect): Targets the epidermis. Its main purpose is to increase the absorption of serums, vitamins, and medications applied to the skin. While normally only 3% of a cream applied to the skin is absorbed, this process can increase the rate to 80%. This size is generally recommended for home use in Izmir.
- 1.0 mm – 1.5 mm (Medium Depth): Reaches the upper layer of the dermis. Stimulates collagen production. Used for large pores, fine wrinkles, and mild acne scars.
2.0 mm – 2.5 mm (Deep Effect): Penetrates deep into the dermis. Used in the treatment of deep acne scars, burn scars, and stretch marks (stria). This depth should absolutely be applied in a clinical setting, by a physician, and under anesthesia.
Dermaroller Application and Environmental Factors in Izmir
Since the working mechanism of the dermaroller temporarily opens the skin’s barrier, environmental factors after the application are of great importance.
Izmir’s high humidity and strong sun are variables that affect the treatment process. The channels opened by the dermaroller leave the skin vulnerable to UV rays. Therefore, “Sun Protection” is an integral part of the treatment to prevent skin discoloration (PIH risk) while the mechanism is working. For patients in Izmir, winter months are the most ideal period for deep applications. In summer months, more superficial and protection-focused protocols are preferred.
Working Mechanism and Targets According to Needle Size
We have summarized which needle size initiates which biological process in the table below:
| Needle Size | Target Layer | Working Principle | Purpose of Use |
|---|---|---|---|
| 0.25 – 0.5 mm | Epidermis (Stratum Corneum). | Increasing permeability by opening channels. | Product absorption, color equalization, vitality. |
| 1.0 – 1.5 mm | Dermis (Papillary). | Releasing growth factors with mild bleeding. | Pore tightening, anti-aging, mild scars. |
| 2.0 – 2.5 mm | Dermis (Reticular). | Breaking fibrotic bands, dense collagen. | Deep acne scars, stretch marks, burn scars. |
The Difference Between Dermaroller and Dermapen: Technological Evolution
Dermaroller is the ancestor of microneedling, but today it has largely been replaced by Dermapen devices. Although the working principle is the same (micro-damage), the application method is different.
Because Dermaroller is cylindrical, the needles enter the skin at an angle and can cause a “tearing” effect when exiting. This can prolong the healing process. Dermapen, on the other hand, inserts and withdraws the needles at a 90-degree angle to the skin. This reduces trauma, lowers pain, and accelerates healing. While Dermapen is generally preferred in professional treatments in modern clinics in Izmir, Dermaroller is more often used in home care protocols.
The Importance of Safety and Hygiene
Because the working mechanism of the Dermaroller is based on “puncturing,” hygiene is vital.
- Personal Use: The Dermaroller should never be shared with anyone else. It carries the risk of bloodborne diseases.
- Sterilization: The device should be cleaned with alcohol or disinfectants before and after each use.
- Needle Quality: In cheap and low-quality devices, the needles may become blunt or bent. This can cause permanent damage to the skin instead of repairing it.
Result: Biological Awakening
In short; the answer to the question “How does Dermaroller work?” is to awaken the sleeping giant of the skin. This system, which gives the skin the command to “rejuvenate” with a mechanical stimulus, provides repair by using the body’s own pharmacy.
If you want to improve the quality of your skin and combat scars and pore problems in Izmir, microneedling technologies are an effective option. However, for this mechanism to work correctly and to protect against unwanted effects, deep applications must be performed by expert physicians in a sterile clinical environment.
